Bill and Will's Synth
Tellun 867 Tuner (with DJB-A440)
& Headphone Monitor Construction
Page 2 - MUUB Construction

           

November 2008 -

This is Page 2 of our Tuner construction documentation

Table of Contents

This documentation has become so long that we've broken it into three separate pages and sections within them.  Here's a table of contents that we hope will make it easier to traverse them:

Beginning and End

background - presents an explanation and Scott Juskiw's initial description of the module with a photo

Parts - presents a Bill of Materials and notes about it

Panel - presents the MOTM format panel

Mounting Bracket - our home-built custom bracket

Snack

Construction Done

Set up / Testing

Use notes

MUUB Construction Page (this page)

Construction PCB 1 - MUUB4

Construction PCB 2 - MUUB3

Construction PCB 3 - MUUB3

Connections Page

PCB Connections - wiring the PCBs together

Panel Wiring - connecting the PCBs to the panel

Construction - PCB1

PCB 1 is built using an MUUB4 and is described in Scott's 867 User's guide section 5.1.  For detailed drawings of the MUUB4, click here.  We're going to chart out each step as we build it to make sure we get everything right.  (click on images to see a larger one)


images from Scott Juskiw

Whereas we are vigilant about orienting all the resistors, caps, etc. consistently so their values can be read easily (in case we need to trouble-shoot them later), we oriented the resistors with the "tolerance" stripe on the left (relative to the text on the pcb).  Why did we do it this way?  'Cause when we started out doing these builds, we thought the gold stripe is so pretty and easy to see... and we put it on the left - well - just because.  But now, we do it so all our modules are consistent with each other <shrug>.  You might want to do it the opposite way - with the "tolerance" stripe on the right - it kinda makes more sense.

Phase 1

All the stuff in Phase 1 gets soldered using "Organic" Solder.  At every break in the action, we wash the board off to get rid of the flux.

Jumpers


here's where they go - (click on image for larger one)


jumpers stuffed


jumpers done - OK - except we made a mistake - we put jumpers at RA6 and RB6.  We didn't even notice them until we were doing the wiring.  We took them out then.

Resistors


resistors stuffed


resistors done

Capacitors


caps are in

Misc

We're going to be sure to wash off the PCB at this point and let it dry well before we begin on the +5V reference circuit.

Special +5V Reference Section

OK - so there is a special +5V Reference circuit built into the lower left section of the MUUB4... down in those 25 little individual pads.  Here are Scott's photos of it:

We thought it out - here's how we think the best method for accomplishing the build:


here's where the three parts go - the LM78L05, the 100nF ceramic cap, and the 10uF electrolytic cap

1. stuff the 100nF ceramic cap - and, looking at the back of the PCB, bend the leads like this:

solder it in:

2. now stuff the 10uF electrolytic cap - and, looking at the back of the PCB, bend the leads like this:

solder it in:

trim it:

3. OK - now, bending the leads so they fit - stuff the LM78L05

looking at the back of the PCB, bend the leads like this:

solder it in:

4. so - now the leads on the back look like this (in white):

5. a touch of solder here:

6. time to wash this off - carefully - those couple leads that stretch off to the left aren't soldered into their specific shape.

Phase 2

The stuff in Phase 2 gets soldered using "No-Clean" Solder and the PCB doesn't get washed off from here on.

Wire jumpers

The last step in making that +5V Reference circuit is to put in the red 22ga wire...


Cut the Wire


Here's where it goes


On the underside, that long lead bends over to connect to the LM78L05 like this.



So, having soldered in the other end of the red wire, the long lead solders at these points.


Now the traces look like Scott's photo - we're done with the +5V Reference thing.


The +5V Reference thing all done.

And now for the very last step of the MUUB construction - the orange wire - well - we don't have orange 22ga wire... but we've got blue.


Cut the wire.


Here's where that blue orange wire goes.


There - solder it up

PCB1 all done

Construction - PCB2

PCB 2 is built using an MUUB3 and is described in Scott's 867 User's guide section 5.2.  For detailed drawings of the MUUB3, click here.  Scott's photos and diagrams make construction quite clear, but we're going to chart out each step as we build it to make sure we get everything right.  (click on images to see a larger one)

Building this PCB isn't for the faint-of-heart. But we've carefully worked out a method that makes it quite do-able.

  
images from Scott Juskiw

  

  

Phase 1

All the stuff in Phase 1 gets soldered using "Organic" Solder.  At every break in the action, we wash the board off to get rid of the flux.

Jumpers

First off, for quick reference, here's Scott Juskiw's diagrams of the jumpers in the "general" area of the PCB:

  
top and bottom

Top Solid Jumpers

OK - so this is tricky. Some jumpers are on the front. Some are on the back. Some need to be put in after other components are already present. Some are wire and so should be soldered in with no-clean solder as part of Phase 2.

We'll start with the solid jumpers on the front.


the red lines indicate where they go - (click on image for larger one) - the position of the IC sockets are shown by those black rectangles.


jumpers - we missed one, but put it in later - it's the one that should be in the top right of this photo and ends up being under R32.

Top Components


Scott's diagram of the top components in the general area

IC Sockets


We think it's a good thing to put the sockets in now 'cause it'll help determine where other things go.

Resistors


Take a look at the bigger picture by clicking on this one. Note that the leads of R4 and R6 are interwoven. Also note that one of the leads of R32 goes around a corner of one of the IC sockets - now the jumper that we missed is under R32.


note that R30's leads are bent so R30 leans off the board and leaves space for wire jumpers that get put in later.

Capacitors


Click for the bigger image - here's where the caps go on the front... more go on the back later.


caps are in

Transistors and Crystal


here's where the transistors go

  
Q1 - leads bent

  
Q1 - installed

  
Q2 - leads bent


Q2 - installed

  
X1 leads bent - X1 installed

Bottom Jumpers


here is Scott's diagram of the bottom jumpers.


looking at the PCB bottom, here are the pads that are soldered.

Bottom Jumpers


Here is where the bottom jumpers go (in bright blue). Some of their ends solder into open holes. Most of these are under IC sockets and therefore can't except long leads so we'll have to trim them before we solder. Others ends solder to pads that are already full.


Here they are soldered in / on.

Bottom Caps


here is Scott's diagram of the bottom components. These are all 100n caps.


here's where the caps go on the back (the red rectangles). Like the bottom jumpers, some of there leads solder into open holes and others solder to pads that are already full.  Again, these are all 100n.


Here they are soldered in - and you can see the jumpers better here too.

Phase 2

The stuff in Phase 2 gets soldered using "No-Clean" Solder and the PCB doesn't get washed off from here on.

Wire Jumpers

Top Wire Jumpers


Here's where the wires go.  Actually as we're building the pcb, we're going to use black wire where green is indicated on this diagram and green wire where yellow is indicated.


Here the wire jumpers are.  We made a couple little mistakes in the process, but we corrected them.  We decided to also solder on the top of the PCB the two wire jumpers shown in tan on the diagram of bottom wire jumpers below.  We decided to do this because we figured it would be easier to maneuver soldering from the bottom of the PCB. 

Bottom Wire Jumpers


Here's where the wires go.  Actually as we're building the pcb, we're going to use black wire where green is indicated on this diagram and green wire where tan is indicated.


But we did put these power jumpers on the bottom.

PCB2 all done

Construction - PCB3

PCB 3 is also built using an MUUB3 and is described in Scott's 867 User's guide section 5.3.  Again, for detailed drawings of the MUUB3, click here.  As with PCB2 Scott's photos and diagrams make construction quite clear, but we're going to chart out each step as we build it to make sure we get everything right.  (click on images to see a larger one)

Building this PCB isn't as complex as PCB2 but it's still a challenge. But following the same procedure as with PCB2, it's quite do-able.  His photo is missing a couple caps, but we got them straight.

  
images from Scott Juskiw

  

Phase 1

All the stuff in Phase 1 gets soldered using "Organic" Solder.  At every break in the action, we wash the board off to get rid of the flux.

Jumpers

First off, for quick reference, here's Scott Juskiw's diagrams of the jumpers in the "general" area of the PCB:

  
top and bottom

Top Solid Jumpers

OK - so again - some jumpers are on the front and some are on the back. Same deal as with PCB2.  And again, we'll start with the solid jumpers on the front.


the red lines indicate where they go - (click on image for larger one) - the position of the IC sockets are shown by those black rectangles.


jumpers in

Top Components


Scott's diagram of the top components in the general area

IC Sockets


Again, we put the sockets in now 'cause it helps determine where other things go.

Resistors


Take a look at the bigger picture by clicking on this one.

Capacitors


Click for the bigger image - here's where the caps go on the front... again - more go on the back later.

Transistor


here's where the transistor goes


Q3 installed

Bottom Jumpers


here is Scott's diagram of the bottom jumpers.


looking at the PCB bottom, here are the pads that are soldered.

Bottom Jumpers


Here is where the bottom jumpers go (in bright blue). Some of their ends solder into open holes. Most of these are under IC sockets and therefore can't except long leads so we'll have to trim them before we solder. Others ends solder to pads that are already full.

Bottom Caps


here is Scott's diagram of the bottom components. These are all 100n caps.


here's where the caps go on the back (the red rectangles). In the case of these caps, they solder into open holes, but the two lower ones are under the IC sockets and can't accept long leads.  Again, these are all 100n.

Phase 2

The stuff in Phase 2 gets soldered using "No-Clean" Solder and the PCB doesn't get washed off from here on.

Wire Jumpers

Top Wire Jumpers


Here's where the wires go.  Actually as we're building the pcb, we're going to use black wire where, on the diagram, yellow is indicated, white wire where the blue is indicated, and blue wire where orange is indicated.

  

Bottom Wire Jumpers


And here's the bottom wires.  Actually as we're building the pcb, we're going to use black wire where green is indicated, blue for the orange, green wire where the blue and yellow are indicated.

  

PCB3 all done

Go on to Page Three - connections

Go back to Page One - beginning and end

 

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