Bill and Will's Synth
MOTM 480R Construction
(includes Richard Brewster's
Daughter Board and modifications
and some of our own little mods too)
"Dual Cascaded State-Variable Filter"



  
This is the 480R front panel which accommodates the RB and DFA mods -  additional jacks, and control knobs.

     
This is the 480 front panel without modifications.

February 2008, February 2010, April 2010

Although we didn't get around to building it for a while, inspired by Adam's success, we decided to include Richard Brewster's modifications to the MOTM480 "Dual Cascaded State-Variable Filter."  In 2008, when we began this page, our purpose was exploring the modifications long before we were ready to build it s we could develop a front panel design so we can have it made before we got to building the module.

Per Adam, Richard's modifications provide "...complete, independent access and control to the two filters in the MOTM-480."  Now, in Adam's modification, he only implemented some of the modifications Richard suggests.  We're decided to go ahead and implement them all.

Here's how Richard describes his modification:

"In the original SynthTech panel the filters are connected in series, with the high pass output of the first hard-wired to the input of the second. This creates the CS-80 “variable band pass” response from the low pass output of the second VCF. The first VCF has a three-input mixer. Each filter has its own panel pots for initial frequency and initial resonance. The VC inputs are ganged: The 1V/Octave, FM, and Resonance VC jacks control both filters together. The Band Pass output of the first VCF is on a panel jack. The main output is the Variable Band Pass output, i.e. the LP out of the second filter. With a few changes and a bigger panel, this more flexible module can be obtained.

"In conjunction with Larry Hendry I designed a 3U-wide panel with symmetrical features for both filters, so they can be used completely independently. Each filter on the custom panel has:

"5 Pots: Inputs A, B, Frequency, Resonance, FM (reversible)

"8 Jacks: Input A, Input B, FM input, 1V/Oct input, Resonance VC input, High Pass, Band Pass, and Low Pass outputs."

But we're going to include a few of our own little wrinkles too - for one thing, we're going to call the filters A & B:

  • Richard completely separates the filters.  To use the filters as originally designed, you could patch the HP output of filter A into one of the inputs of filter B.  Instead, we're going to include a switch (SEPARATE / JOIN) to disconnect the filters or connect them as originally designed (including the 150K resistor which Richard removed).
  • He also has completely separate signal inputs for each of the two filters. In our version, the same switch will send the inputs from IN B1 and IN B2 either to the input of filter B (when in the SEPARATE position) or to the input of Filter A (When in the JOIN position).
  • Richard also has completely separate CV inputs for each of the two filters.  In our version, we'll wire the 112X Switchcraft Jacks for Filter B's 1V/OCT, FM, and RES inputs such that they'll be normalized to Filter A's CVs until a jack is inserted into them at which point, they'll become discreet inputs.

We figured that these extra features would make it possible for us to use the filter nearly as originally designed as well as using the modifications when we want them.  With the switch in the JOIN position, Filter A HP and BP output, and Filter B LP outputs should be the original outputs.

The MOTM 480 has a "difficulty factor" of 5, the most difficult - and with Richard's modifications, it was much more difficult - let alone the addition of the "Join" switch.

To make the modifications, we'll need a MUUB4 and a 4-pot "Stooge Mounting Bracket."  We'll also need other requisite parts.

We built this page in February 2008 but it took us fully two years before we got to actually building the module. At that time, February 2010, we agreed to build one for a friend at the same time.  Ours was based on a old-fashioned kit... the other was a 2.0 implementation.  The 2.0 version used alpha pots instead of the Bourns and Spectrols like the kit.

It bears noting that the builds turned out to be some of the most difficult we'd ever attempted.  But most of the difficulty really had to do with thinking it all through - and then dealing with the two builds.

Table of Contents

This documentation has become so long that we've broken it into  separate pages and sections within them.  Here's a table of contents that we hope will make it easier to traverse them:

Beginning and End (This Page)

Background - presents an explanation and Paul Schrieber's initial description of the Module.

Modifications - presents details of Scott Juskiw's Modification and Daughterboard

Parts - presents a Bill of Materials and notes about it

Panel - presents the MOTM format panel

Construction Done

Set up / Testing

Use notes

Construction Page

MUUB4 Daughterboard Construction

Construction Phase 1 - Resistors, Capacitors, IC Sockets, Power Plugs, MTA headers

Construction Phase 2 - Trimmers, Switches, Wires, Transistors, Tempcos

Mount PCBs, Prepare Panels

Panel Connections

2.0 Build Connections

"Kit" Build Connections

Background

Paul Writes:

The MOTM-480 VCF is configured as a super bandpass filter with independent corner frequencies and resonant peaks, similar to the legendary CS-80 configuration. This module can create distinctive pad and brass timbres. Built-in audio mixer can filter any audio source! Expansion connector for future configurations!

  • Contains Dual Resonant State-Variable VCFs with CS-80 specific characteristics
  • Cascaded HP & LP Filters with lowpass (LP) and bandpass (BP) outputs
  • Independent Cutoff Frequency
  • Independent Resonance
  • Three Audio Ins with Level
  • Voltage Controlled Resonance
  • 5U high x 2U wide

Construction Note:

In the version of the User's Guide that came with our kit, the installation of the four transistors was omitted. We asked Paul about it and he confirmed our suspicions that these should be installed with no-clean solder and with heat transfer grease between the pairs.

Modifications

1. Dave Brown Max Resonance Limit

Per Dave Brown:

"Replaced R56 and R61 with 1K trimmers. The trimmers fit in the resistor footprint by clipping one lead and slightly spreading the other two leads.

"I had very weird distortion and strange modes at high resonance levels. ... Decreasing the input level to '8' eliminated both effects but I wanted to avoid them at both maximum input level and resonance. I adjusted the maximum resonance to limit the maximum output voltage to +/-13 volts."

picture from Dave Brown

2. Disconnection of the Filters

The MOTM schematics refer to one filter as "HP."  Richard Brewster calls this "Filter 1" and we're going to call it "Filter A." The other filter is referred to as "LP." Richard calls this one "Filer 2" and we'll call it "Filter B." As Richard explained, the two filters are connected in series, with the high pass output of the first (A) hard-wired to the input of the second (B).  This is done through resistor "R68" (150K).  By removing this resistor, the two filters are separated.

3. Switch to Re-Connect the Filters

Our idea is to have a switch to re-route the input to filter B in the original way, through the 150K resistor.

4. Input Connections

A. Disconnect Inputs from Filter 1

Per Richard's mod, we'll remove R25 from the motherboard.

B. Make Connections at switch

We'll re-mount resistor R25 - and an additional 150K resistor for the fourth input - on bits of wire connected to the switch.  With these resistors and also with R68 on the switch, we can easily make the various input connections we are aiming at.  Here's a schematic of our idea:

Here's how we'll mount the three 150K resistors on the switch and make the connections:

With everything hooked up this way, when the switch is in the "up" (JOIN) position, the inputs to the filter and relationship between the filters should act much like Paul Schreiber's original design only with four inputs instead of three. With the switch in the down, (not printed on the panel) SEPARATE position, the filter should be set up much like Richard Brewster's design.

5. Board-mounted Pots

VR1, VR2, VR3, and VR4 will not be soldered into the PCB - they will mount on the panel instead.

6. Disconnect Voltage Control Inputs

Per Richard, four traces need to be cut to separate the voltage control inputs for each filter:

  • to the right of R18, on the top of the board. The right end of R18 will connect the 1V/OCT input of Filter A

  • to the right of R19, on the top of the board. The right end of R19 will connect the +FM input of Filter A

  • to the right of R21, on the bottom of the board. The right end of R19 will connect the -FM input of Filter A

  • between R66 and J3, on the bottom of the board. The left end of R66 will connect the RES IN of Filter B

7. Build Buffers for Extra Outputs Using MUUB4

Here is how the components and connections lay out:

8. Other connections

Here's how Richard describes the other jack connections:

  • The right end of R18 will connect the 1V/OCT input of Filter A.
  • The left end of R66 will connect the RES IN for Filter B.
  • The right end of R19 will connect the +FM input of Filter A.
  • The right end of R21 will connect the –FM input of Filter A.
  • Wire the IN-A1 pot at the VR1 location (center and ground only).
  • Wire the IN-A2 pot where VR2 location (center and ground only).
  • The left hole where R68 was will connect the HP Filter A output.
  • The lower end of R55 (33K) will connect the LP Filter A output.
  • The left end of R40 (10K) will connect the HP Filter B output.
  • The right end of R50 (4M7) will connect the BP Filter B output.

But by referring to the PCBs and including our JOIN switch idea, here's a very complete chart of the PCB connections:

Note: you could use the J5 and J6 pads on the PCB to connect the INPUT A1 and INPUT A2 jacks - but we're going to connect those jacks directly to their pots per Richard's build.

Note: the Signal lug of the four INPUT jacks go to lug 3 of their respective INPUT pots

Note: you could connect the FM IN jack of filter B directly to its pot per Richard's build, but we've opted to use pad J2 on the PCB instead

9. Normalization Wiring for Filter B CV Input jacks

We'll wire the jacks for filter B CV inputs so that if no plug is inserted, Filter A's CVs will connect to Filter B's. Looking at the panel back, those three connections would be here:

Parts

Will and I have developed two parts-lists / bill-of-materials-es in the form of XL spreadsheets - one for the stock 480 per MOTM 2.0 - and another for the 480R mods based on the parts list on Richard Brewster's Site and our own figuring.

Click here to download the 480 XL spreadsheet (apx. 250K).

Click here to download the 480R XL spreadsheet (apx. 250K).

Click here to go to our Bill of Materials Page.

PCB Mounting Brackets

Here's how we prepared the Bridechamber 4 pot brackets for the modules:

Wires

During construction, we set the PCB on a bracket with a panel so we could work out the wire lengths - and we made this chart for the module's connection wiring:

Connection Color Length
Daughter Board:    
1. DB JC1 - coax;  signal wire from PCB R40 left side (Filter B HP out) coax 6in
  (coax shield to DB JC1)    
2. DB JD1 - coax;  signal wire from PCB R50 right side (Filter B BP out) coax 6in
  (coax shield to DB JD1)    
3. DB JA1 - coax;  signal wire from PCB R25 left side (Filter A HP out) (shares this point with wire 13. to switch) coax 6-1/2in
  (coax shield to DB JA1)    
4. DB JB1 - coax;  signal wire from PCB R55 lower lead (Filter A LP out) coax 6in
  (coax shield to DB JB1)    
5. DB JC9 coax to Filter B HP OUT jack coax 8in
6. DB JD9 coax to Filter B BP OUT jack coax 8in
7. DB JA9 coax to Filter A HP OUT jack coax 6in
8. DB JB9 coax to Filter A LP OUT jack coax 7in
Join Switch:    
9. INPUT B1 pot - signal wire from pot wiper lug (2) via 150KR to switch left side middle lug coax 6in
  shield to pot CW lug (1) (shares with ground wires)    
10. INPUT B2 pot - signal wire from  pot wiper lug (2) via 150KR to switch left side middle lug coax 6in
  shield to pot CW lug (1) (shares with  ground wire)    
11. Filter B Input - signal wire from Switch left side top lug to R68 right hole (shares with wire 12.) coax 9-1/2in
  (shield attaches to ground at VR1 lug 1;
Note: strip long - about 1in of shield is needed to reach ground)
   
12. Filter B Input - signal wire from Switch right side middle lug via 150KR to R68 right hole (shares with wire 11.) blue 8in
  (shield attaches to ground at VR1 lug 1;
Note: strip long - about 1in of shield is needed to reach ground)
   
13. Filter A Input - Switch left side bottom lug via R150K to R25 left hole (shares with coax signal wire 3.) green 9in
14. HP Filter A Output - Switch right side bottom lug to R68 left side red 9in
Potentiometers:    
15. Filter B FREQUENCY pot to PCB VR7  (pad 1) white 11in
16.   (pad 2) black 11in
17.   (pad 3) red 11in
18. Filter A FREQUENCY pot to PCB VR5 (pad 1) white 12in
19.   (pad 2) black 12in
20.   (pad 3) red 12in
21. INPUT A1 pot - signal wire from pot wiper lug (2) to VR1 pad 2 coax 7in
  shield from pot lug 1 (CW) to VR1 pad 1    
  (pot lug 3 coax signal wire #47)    
22. Filter B RESONANCE pot to PCB VR6 (pad 1) white 9-1/2in
23.   (pad 2) blue 9-1/2in
24.   (pad 3) red 9-1/2in
25. Filter A RESONANCE pot to PCB VR8 (pad 1) white 11in
26.   (pad 2) blue 11in
27.   (pad 3) red 11in
28. INPUT A2 pot - signal wire from pot wiper lug (2) to VR2 pad 2 coax 7in
  shield from pot lug 1 (CW) to VR2 pad 1    
  (pot lug 3 coax signal wire #48)    
29. Filter B FM pot to PCB VR4 (pad 1) white 7in
30.   (pad 2) blue 7in
31.   (pad 3) red 7in
32. Filter A FM pot lug 1 to PCB R21 right lead white 9-1/2in
33. Filter A FM pot lug 2 to Filter A FM jack tip lug green 5-1/2in
34. Filter A FM pot lug 3 to PCB R19 right lead red 9-1/2in
- INPUT B1 pot wiper lug to switch left side middle lug via 150KR (wire #9)    
  INPUT B1 pot CW lug (1) wire #9 shield    
  INPUT B1 pot CW lug (1) to J6 ground pad on PCB green 8in
  INPUT B1 pot CW lug (1) to INPUT B2 pot CW lug (1) green 3in
- INPUT B2 pot wiper lug to switch left side middle lug via 150KR (wire #10)    
  INPUT B2 pot CW lug (1) wire #10 shield    
  INPUT B2 pot CW lug (1) to INPUT B1 pot CW lug (1)    
Jacks:    
- Filter B HP OUT wire #5    
- Filter B BP OUT wire #6    
35. Filter B LP OUT - jack to J8 on PCB coax 6in
36. Filter B 1V/OCT jack tip lug to J1 pad 1 on PCB red 7-1/2in
36a. Filter B 1V/OCT jack switch lug to Filter A 1V/OCT jack tip lug (shared by wire #43) red 4in
37. Filter B 1V/OCT jack shank lug to J1 pad 2 on PCB (also ground wire to Filter A 1V/OCT jack shank lug) black 7-1/2in
  (also wire #44 ground to Filter A  1V/OCT jack shank lug) black 3in
38. Filter B FM jack tip to to J2 pad 1 on PCB green 7-1/2in
38a. Filter B FM jack switch lug to Filter A FM jack tip lug (shared by wire #20) green 4in
39. Filter B FM jack shank lug to J2 pad 2 on PCB black 7-1/2in
40. Filter B RES - jack tip lug to R66 left lead blue 10in
40a. Filter B RES jack switch lug to Filter A RES jack tip lug (shared by wire #45) blue 4in
41. Filter B RES - jack shank lug to ground at Tempco Resistor black 10in
- Filter A HP OUT wire #7    
42. Filter A BP OUT - coax;  jack to J4 on PCB coax 8in
- Filter A LP OUT wire #8   4in
43. Filter A 1V/OCT jack tip lug to R18 right lead on PCB red 10in
  Also tip lug - wire 36a.    
44. Filter A 1V/OCT jack shank lug to ground at Filter B 1V/OCT jack shank lug black 3in
  wire # 33 (Filter A FM jack tip lug to Filter A FM pot wiper lug (2))    
  Also tip lug - wire 38a.    
yy. Filter A FM jack shank lug to ground at shank lug Filter B FM jack black 3in
45. Filter A RES - jack tip lug to J3 pad 2 blue 13-1/2
  Also tip lug - wire 40a.    
46. Filter A RES - jack shank lug to ground at J3 pad 1 black 13-1/2
47. INPUT A1 jack - signal wire jack tip lug to INPUT A1 pot lug 3 (CCW) coax 8in
  (coax shield to jack shank lug)    
  (jack shank lug to J5 ground pad on PCB) black 8in
  (jack shank lug to INPUT A2 jack shank lug) black 3in
48. INPUT A2 jack - signal wire jack tip lug to INPUT A2 pot lug 3 (CCW) coax 7in
  (coax shield to jack shank lug)    
  (jack shank lug to ground via INPUT A1 jack shank lug - above)    
  (jack shank lug to INPUT B1 jack shank lug) black 3in
49. INPUT B1 jack - signal wire jack tip lug to INPUT B1 pot lug 3 (CCW) coax 6in
  (coax shield to jack shank lug)    
  (jack shank lug to ground via INPUT A2 jack shank lug - above)    
  (jack shank lug to INPUT B2 jack shank lug) black 3in
50. INPUT B2 jack - signal wire jack tip lug to INPUT B2 pot lug 3 (CCW) coax 5in
  (coax shield to jack shank lug)    
  (jack shank lug to ground via INPUT B1 jack shank lug - above) black 3in

Some of the coax wires will have the shield connected only at one end:

1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 47, 48, 49, 50

Panel

It bears noting that our panel design is different from Richard Brewster's in the position of the jacks and the addition of the JOIN switch. If you're using Richard's Project Page as a supplemental build guide, you'll need to be careful of this.

For our FPD panel design, click here.

But Scott Deyo made a panel - and we got ours from him.

Construction / Connections

Go on to Page Two - Construction

Go to Page Three - Connections

Snack - Lamb Shanks (with Scalloped Potatoes & Salad)

 

Place shanks in Dutch oven w/garlic and a cup or so of red wine.  We had some leftover Pinot Noir from a couple weeks back.  Bring to a simmer and cover.

 
 
Turning every half hour -


after two hours, they're beautifully braised

 

and the dregs - save them for later.


the shanks and broth go in the fridge overnight

Next evening -

 
Pepper them up - put on grill just to brown and heat them

 
after about 10 to 15 minutes, beautiful!

But the shanks alone don't a meal make. So we made Scalloped Potatoes and Salad to go with.


We served it all up with some of the dregs re-heated and drizzled over like gravy. That's a glass of White Star champagne (now flat) from a bottle I'd opened couple nights back. Flat, but still delicious.

Construction Done

2.0 Build

  

"Kit" Build

  

  

Set up / Testing

Use Notes

 

Bill and Will's Synth Main Page
Send eMail to Dragonfly Alley

The fine Print:
Use this site at your own risk.
We are self-proclaimed idiots and any use of this site and any materials presented herein should be taken with a grain of Kosher salt. If the info is useful - more's the better.  Bill and Will

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